Luckily, we do have some nice winter festivals here, like the Festival of Light 2015 in my home town of Ghent. I don’t like snow I don’t like the cold nor the grey cloud blanket that seems to cover most of the continent during this season. But as long as you stick with native optics, you already have all the tools you need in the Fuji X-T1. Sure, other manufacturers need both lens and sensor stabilisation to get to 5 stops, and it is good news if you use legacy lenses with your camera. They already have a proven and top stabilisation in place, and now it looks like you won’t be able to sell a camera without it. It’s not new I know, but you’d almost think that it’s not possible to shoot a descent image without this system when reading reviews and comments. I thought that it must be frustrating for a company like Fujifilm to hear about the new ‘fad’, internet buzz/sensation: sensor stabilisation. A couple of other Fujinon lenses I also own have the IOS, like the wide-angle XF10-24 f/4 and the standard zoom XF 18-55 f/2.8-4, but you get the most benefit when coupled with tele-zooms. Or any combination of these 2, well you get the point. Or going to a slower aperture like f/5.6-8 in order to get maximum edge-to-edge sharpness without cranking up ISO. It can give you an advantage of 4 to 5 stops. I can, most times, get away with ISO 200 where I used to have to shoot at perhaps 3200. This technique is possible with the XF 50-140 f/2.8 if you have descent light, mainly because the incorporated optical image stabilisation works so well. Getting the best performance out of your camera isn’t about setting it to Auto and hoping for the best, is it? I prefer setting my Fuji X-T1 to ISO 200 in good light, with an appropriate aperture and choosing if and when to add noise to post processing. All images shot RAW at ISO 6400, processed with Dfine2 and RNI film essentials.

Fujifilm best camera 2015